free

got up early morning. got into my car. surfboard resting inside. in the trunk, a wetsuit and a pair of swim fins that ride all the time with me. drove down to supertubes. the wind was offshore, the waves were rolling down the line. not too big. little barrels just driving. and i thought today i'll free myself. so i left the board resting in the car. no board today. slipped on my wetsuit, grabbed my swim fins and walked over to the sea bed. eyed the little barrels for a while, anticipating the moment. saw myself rolling with them. flowing inside them. after that momentary lapse of time, i stretched and stretched. and i stretched some more. letting each muscle as loose as possible. grabbed my fins and dove into the water. slipped on my fins in the water and swam over to the line-up. while i was waiting for the set, i thought to myself "i should do this more often". then a wave came. i got into position and took off, dropping into the face of the wave. rolled with it, zipping weightless down the line. the wave started to pitch. i tucked under the lip and flew through the barrel. i thought how lucky i was. how i want to share these moments with my soon to be son. how great it is to live by the ocean. how good the sun feels on cold wet skin. i thought how simple life can be. and how little you need to make you happy. as i'm swimming back to get another i'm thinking how good it feels to be where i am. and how good it feels. to be free.